Questions & Challenges

Wednesday, May 28, 2008

Tour de Java

Well you asked for it, here it is:

We left Cipete (our house) at 6:05 am.

Samson kept jumping in and out of the car and

Angel hid under the wooden sofa at the

pendopo.(kind of terrace)

Kakung (grandpa) came to say goodbye.

Pak (mister) Hadi was our driver and he needed to refill

the gas tank.

There was a Starbucks at the rest area and we

ordered by drive-thru - a macchiato, a scone

and some muffins.

Ibu(mother) was in a particularly good mood and I told

them, “Save the good mood for later”. Efficient.

Our first stop was Jatiluhur Dam. The project

to build the dam was initiated by Ir. H. Djuanda

in 1957. He was the first person to borrow

funds from another country, in this case France.

With French and Italian collaboration, it took

2500 workers ten years to complete it, not

without accidents.


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We noticed a railway coming out of the tunnel

and were told that it was used to transport the

building materials.

On 26 August 1967 President Suharto declared it ready

for operation.

The reservoir, which comes from the Citarum

River, covers 88,000 hectares and relocated 12

villages.

On the other side of the dam is Kali Malang

River, which leads to Jakarta.

Terrorists should just blow up the dam if they

want to flood Jakarta. They would’ve gotten in

easily because the security was shit.

We went through the tunnel going through the

dam to the place where the water falls from 80

meters and moves the turbines which powers

the generator.

This dam gives power throughout Java and

Bali, but its main priority is irrigation and clean

water for Jakarta.


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The dam consists of peat moss, clay and rocks

so it won’t break if there’s an earthquake.

I got most of this information from listening to

the guide talking to Ibu and asking my parents

what he said. I didn’t know how to say what I

wanted to ask and he didn’t seem to like me.

We made our way up to the top of the dam,

having to pay again, plus bribe money.

The structure where the water goes in is 114

meters from the top.

Oliver (our German cousin) went to see what the high-pitched

squeaks came from and saw tails. He assumed

they were rats. I saw a wing and thought they

were bats.

People commit suicide here and some are told

by ‘dark forces’ to jump. Mba (nickname for my sister) made fun of this

and got ketindihan.(sleep paralysis, I think)

Malabar Tea Plantation was the next stop, but

lunch was first.

We went on the wrong path and stopped at

Shine Café when we found our way. The food


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was crap and was even worse with the flies

joining us.

Fortunately the tea plantation made us forget

that bad experience. It was built and owned by

Karel Albert Rudolf Bosscha (1865-1928), a

Dutchman who came to Indonesia in 1887. It

was finished in 1896.

We looked at his old house which was well-

maintained and still habitable and visited his

grave where there was a gigantic tree.

The plantation is 14,000 hectares wide. Bosscha

was also known for building an observatory in

Lembang, which had the biggest lens in its time

(1923-1926), Technische Hoge School or ITB

and Gedung Merdeka (freedom building) in Bandung, which was

used for the first Asia-Africa conference in

1955.

We stayed the night at Hotel Kampung Sumber

Alam in Cipanas, Garut. I got an excruciating

massage for Rp 125,000, which I’m sure I’ll

feel in the morning. The staff was polite and

helpful.


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Day 2

Garut - Wonosobo

We got back on the road at 8:21 am. We went

through Tasikmalaya to Ciamis. The driver

took the road to Pangandaran, which we were

not going to, near Ciamis.

There was a landslide on the main road and we

had to go through the city where we lost our

way. That set us back 15 minutes.

We had lunch at Restaurant Taman Pring Sewu

which boasted good food and perfect service

with their advertisements which appeared on

the road over 100 kilo meters.

False advertising and Ayah marah-marah, (dad got mad)

which made it seem like a bad experience.

I hope not all our lunches are like this and the

previous one. I wasn’t satisfied.

The towns we passed - Purwokerto, Ajibarang

and Purbalingga - had town squares called

alun-alun which had enormous banyan trees

that turns on Ibu.


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The roads in those cities were wide and fairly

clean.

We skipped Batu (stone) Raden, a mountain resort, to

keep on schedule we didn’t stop at a place of

interest for 373 km from Garut to Wonosobo

and that made me bored and restless.

Tonight we stay at Gallery Hotel Kresna. It was

Dutch owned and was called Grand Hotel

Dieng, Hotel Merdeka, Centra Hotel and,

finally, Kresna.

They kept the original tiles and the steel plated

ceiling for the dining hall.

It is an antique hotel, nice for lovers of culture

and history.

Day 3

Wonosobo - Solo

This is supposed to be a diary not a report. I’ll

add in the history and statistics of the places of

interests later. There’s not a day when I don’t

feel tired, but I want to get through this. I’d like

to see cities cleaner and nicer than Jakarta. I’m

assuming that the roads we passed through


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were wide because there weren’t as many

people living there than in Jakarta.

We went to Dieng Plateau and saw our first

candi. (temple) We saw Candi Arjuna. They calculated

that there were about 200 temples in Dieng,

which were built during the eighth until the

twelfth century; now, only eight still stand.

The plateau was formed by magma that erupted

from Gunung Perahu many-many years ago.

The name Dieng comes from the term dihyang,

which means the place where the spirits of our

ancestors live.

They say the temples in Dieng are the most

attractive because they are in a plateau and on a

high elevation.

The temples here were used to worship the

Hindu god Shiva.

The guide says that Hindu civilization in Java

started here, 2,093 meters above the sea, with

the Sanjaya Dynasty.


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When they came, the plateau was mostly

swampland. They used tunnels to dry out the

water. As the Hindu people were pushed further

east, the water came back in. Then the Dutch

came and maintained it.

Many people meditate here because of its

mystical aura there.

From July to August the temperature drops to

zero degrees Celsius and even minus two

degrees once.

There is much volcanic activity in Dieng and

there are as many craters.

The Dutch analyzed the geothermal prospective

for this place and UNESCO confirmed that it

has the best prospective in Indonesia.

In 1994 they drilled 1500 meters deep. They

drilled before, but weren’t as serious as the one

in 1994.

The power plant called GEO DIPA was built

between 1995 and 1998. Its capacity is 60

megawatts.


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Ibu stopped at the office to introduce herself to

the manager of the plant, her client.

We wanted to go to Kebun The(tea plantation) Tambi, but it

was too expensive and took too long.

There was a problem with a satpam (sec. guard) who was

too lazy to open another gate so we could get in

easier. Mba reported him.

We ate at Kresna, ordering our food while on

the way there.

At Magelang we visited the place where

General de Kock of Dutch army ambushed

Pangeran Diponegoro when they called him to

negotiate.

They kept the seating arrangements the way

they were and P. Diponegoro’s seat was put in a

display case. The Prince was 180-190 cm tall.

I remembered seeing deer the last time I was

here. They were hiding when we came. We saw

one in clear view and a few rustling in the

bushes.


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We couldn’t see Gunung (mountain) Merapi at Ketep pass

as it was covered by fog.

Ayah got mad at the driver for taking the long

way, going through Salatiga. Ayah himself

wasn’t clear in giving directions. Nobody likes

hearing Ayah angry. I asked Ibu to tell him that.

That night at Surakarta, we slept at Lorin Hotel,

a five-star hotel.

Day 4

Solo - Blitar

Surakarta is better known as Solo because of a

river called Bengawan Solo that goes through

the city.

We visited Istana (palace) Mangkunegaran, which was

poorly maintained. The palace covers 10

hectares. Its pendopo, which is the largest in

Indonesia, is used for dances and receptions.

The Mangkunegaran now is the ninth one. It

was the second one who built the palace. Some

of the people from the royal family still live

here. We were shown the collections of gifts

from other nations and horse carriages.


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There was an ivory carving from Karang Asem

in Bali that took 25 years to make.

The royal family has normal jobs, their royal

status is just a symbol.

Personally, I like Keraton Kasunanan more, it

had trees and was more beautiful.

We went to Roemahkoe, a bed and breakfast

hotel, to look around and see the kampong(village)

batik.

We saw how they make batik and I asked the

steps of making batik, which I’ll read more

into.

Then we had some drinks and left for Grojogan

Sewu, which we skipped because of rain and a

long walk.

On the way to Telaga Sarangan, the sloping

road was covered by dense fog.

It was creepy like Silent Hill, the movie and

game, but fun.

I scared Mba when I mentioned that.


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The car brakes also got very hot and were

smoking.

We ate at a red restaurant at the lake.

There were speedboats, duckboats, horses and

rabbit satays. (skewered meat)

We passed through a village called Plaosan,

which is where Kakung was trained to be a spy.

We saw many sugar cane fields on the tree-

lined road to Blitar, the hometown of Soekarno,

the first President of Indonesia.

We arrived at Hotel Tugu Srilestari. Soekarno

used to stay here whenever he went home and

we saw his room.

I saw Miss Indonesia 2007 that night and rooted

for the girl who won - Jawa Barat.

Day 5

Blitar - Surabaya

This hotel had the biggest bathroom of all the

hotels I’ve been to on this trip.


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Next on the itinerary was Bung Karno’s grave.

There were also a museum and library there.

We saw the first Indonesian flag, which was

knit by Ibu (Misses) Fatmawati, Soekarno’s wife, and

the suitcase that Soekarno always brought when

he was arrested.

There were lots of pictures of Soekarno and

other important people.

At the gravesite, we came across Opa’s (Dutch for grandpa) secreta-

ry when he was in Polkam - Mbak Nina. We

took a picture and exchanged phone numbers.

With my intellectual curiosity, I assaulted the

museum and library staff with this question:

who appointed Soekarno to be president? Well

I asked Ayah actually.

They assumed it was BPUPKI (Badan Penyeli-

dik Usaha-usaha Persiapan Kemerdekaan

Indonesia) and PPKI (Panitia Persiapan Kemer-

dekaan Indonesia), but there wasn’t a written

record. (the people who organized preparation for independence)

I didn’t really care if they had it or not and I

wasn’t intending on stupefying them with my


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question. It was just a thought that crossed my

mind.

It felt nice to know these facts: Soekarno’s

mom Ibu Ida Nyoman Rai, from Bali, predicted

that he was going to be President and the

Japanese helped Indonesia prepare for

independence.

They’re the ones who founded PPKI; they

called it Dokoritzu Junbi Cosukai. Indonesia

proclaimed itself to be independent on 17

August 1945.

The legal recognition of independence happen-

ed in 1949 after fighting the British and the

Dutch. It was at this time that the bloody battles

occurred.

We explored another candi, this time Candi

Penataran.. It was found by the Dutch in 1815,

but the people recognized it in 1850. It has

three yards and is the biggest temple complex

in Jawa Timur.

From the carvings on the stone, they found that

they began building it in 1197 and finished in


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1415. The carvings on the stone tell the legend

of Ramayana and Krisnayana.

There was a pool that had water from a natural

spring. There were some fish, huge catfish and

a crab in it. They say if you bathe in it jadi

‘awet muda’. (live longer)

The sun was beating down on us at 11 am.

We saw a tree that had a fruit called maja,

which was ‘pahit’ (bitter) and found out that it was

where the name Majapahit came from.

Ollie was always hounded by girls during this

trip, I saw a girl shaking hands with him from

the top of a candi.

Speaking of Ollie, he’s sick and it’s getting

worse. I hope I don’t catch it.

Ibu is intentionally bikin aku kaget, (shocking me) poking me

in the back, it happened four times now, and

they call me insensitive. (my brain was fucked up then)

We ate at Tugu Hotel in Malang. There was a

collection of artifacts and pictures from various

cultures. The place was kept dark, maybe to


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save power. It was quite scary, but that made

me want to go in.

We visited the devastation in Sidoarjo where an

oil and gas company, Lapindo, drilled reckless-

ly and caused hot mud to erupt, relocating four

villages and causing trillions of Rupiah worth

of damage.

Some people have died because of the noxious

fumes that spew out. This has been going on for

over a year. Some of the mud have already

dried and are cracked.

We only went close to the dried mud that

swallowed a whole housing complex and avoid-

ed the mud that was still bubbling.

A new dam was built near the bubbling mud.

Ibu was scared.

Some of the villagers who lost their jobs be-

came guides for people who wanted to see this

and the villagers ask people who came through

for money. We hired one and got through

easily.


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I felt the sadness, thinking of the people who

lost their homes.

Then we stopped at Surabaya for the night

staying in Hotel Majapahit, once called Hotel

Oranje. This hotel is known to be haunted. It

also used to be a hospital.

After proklamasi, (proclamation) the blue strip of a Dutch flag

was ripped here and became an Indonesian flag.

It happened on a tower adjacent to the hotel.

The current hotel retained all the original

structures, the bathroom the doors and very

little of it was new.

I wanted Japanese food for dinner, Ollie and

Mba were sick, especially Mba, as she was

vomiting. I went with Ayah, searching for a

Japanese restaurant. We found one at Grand

Hyatt, Kazihashi and I had a bento.

We explored Surabaya at night by taxi, seeing

the monument of a shark fighting a crocodile,

which people infer is where the name Surabaya

comes from.


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Day 6

Surabaya - Kudus

We arrived at the midpoint of our trip and are

now heading west. We started the day late since

some of us were sick.

When I went to breakfast, my parents weren’t

there yet. I assumed they were exploring the

hotel. I ate anyway and they came later.

We asked a taxi to lead us to House of

Sampoerna, a museum about the cigarette

company and also a production line of the

cigarettes.

Mba had breakfast first.

Heni was our guide. She told us there were 500

workers rolling, cutting and packing cigarettes

in each of the six buildings. The workers can

pack 2000 packs per work day (six to four), cut

15,000 cigarettes and roll up 5000. All the

workers were women, the ones we saw at least.

Sampoerna had a scholarship program and they

help improve the quality of schools around

Indonesia.


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The founder of Sampoerna was Liem Seeng

Tee. He came to Surabaya with his father in

1898 from a Chinese village called Anxi.

Within six months of arriving in Surabaya, his

father died and he was adopted by a family in

Bojonegoro.

LST became independent at the age of eleven.

He worked non-stop for eighteen months at the

train tracks selling food to passengers until he

had enough money to buy a second-hand

bicycle to start a mobile business.

At sixteen he met the woman who would be his

wife - Siem Tjiang Nio.

Their business started as a small stall selling

various foodstuffs and cigarettes. Then LST

used a broken factory and Sampoerna grew.

Today Sampoerna is owned by Phillip Morris

and its president is the fourth generation.

It is the fifth largest cigarette maker in the

world.

Some of the family live here at the factory

complex.


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All of Sampoerna’s cigarettes have cloves in

them.

I had little interest of the information above,

since I don’t support smoking, but anything that

gives legal employment is good.

We had lunch at the café and I felt nauseous.

We had a long distance to cover from Surabaya

to Kudus.

We had the rare opportunity to drive along the

north coast; we had the Java Sea to our right.

For a long time we saw nothing but the back of

trucks in front of us and a few truck accidents

that caused a jam.

I was getting restless, six and a half hours in the

car, going crazy, bitchy and rude.

We slept at Griptha Hotel in Kudus.

Tomorrow was Ayah’s birthday and we intend

be on time for him.


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Day 7

Kudus - Semarang

Our hopes came true on Ayah’s birthday as we

left the hotel exactly at eight.

I knew I was going to get sick since I slept

without a blanket last night.

We saw Mesjid (mosque) Menara, which held the resting

place of one of the Walisongo, Sunan Kudus.

They were the ones who introduced Islam to

Jawa. The graveyard also had the graves of

princes and heroes. It had a serene aura, despite

the many pilgrims paying homage.

I shalat (Prayed) at the mosque.

My theme song for this trip was “Another

Chance” by Utada Hikaru, since her album First

Love kept playing and it wouldn’t get out of my

head.

We went up to Jepara and learned all about R.

A. Kartini. She fought for women’s freedom

and education. Women during her time in the

late 19

th

century could only do housework and

make handcrafts. They weren’t allowed to do


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anything important. She was jealous of, but

loved her brother Sosrokartono who went to

Holland to study.

She had many Dutch friends and wrote them

letters, with her skillful writing, expressing her

ideas for women in Indonesia. One of her

friends was the director of education, Mr. J.H.

Abendanon. So you can imagine the extent of

her influence.

Kartini did so much in the short time that she

lived, dying not even in her thirties.

We saw the Kabupaten, where she lived.

There were two cages in the front yard, one had

macaques and the other had peacocks and

chickens.

On the way back, we passed by the place where

they kept Kartini’s umbilical cord in Mayong,

also her birthplace. (Didn’t actually stop though)

We went back to Kudus and stopped by Tuya

Troso, kampung tenun ikat. (weaving village) My parents bought

a framed mirror.


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Then we looked around at Mesjid Agung in

Demak. The mosque was built in 1479 AD and

the original structure still stands.

It was hot. It was noon. I wasn’t feeling well

and the people there shoving books into my

hands and asking for money later didn’t help at

all. Heh, nothing is free.

I was feeling too sick to care and didn’t get

much written down about this place.

On the way to Semarang, my stomach was

churning and all I thought about was holding it

in.

I let it all out at Hotel Ciputra Semarang where

the staff congratulated Ayah for his birthday.

I had diarrhea with a congested nose and stayed

in the room.

We watched Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire

before sleeping.


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Day 8

Semarang - Kuningan

I caught Hikki’s Flavor of Life video being

played on MTV. Nice and fresh way to start the

day.

At breakfast Ayah and Ollie were ga-ga over

Angelina what’s-her-last-name, a female mem-

ber of DPR or something.

We went to Lawang Sewu. Ayah, Ollie and

Mba looked around while I went to the hotel

with Ibu for my unpredictable diarrhea.

Next was the Sam Poo Kong temple or

klenteng, which was dedicated to Zheng He, the

Chinese explorer, who did accomplish more

than those European ones. He helped settle

wars in Siam and Malacca and suppressed a

rebellion somewhere else.

I felt lousy and didn’t bother to take notes. I

don’t think I even brought my book.

Had lunch at RM Puas.


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We saw various priceless batiks on display at

the Museum Batik in Pekalongan. Some had a

mixture of styles from three countries. The

museum was pretty new.

Then Ibu and Ayah spent a while choosing a

batik at Oei Soey Tjoen.

That was the last stop until the next hotel in

Kuningan.

The road was terrible and trucks were slowing

us down.

That night we stayed at Tirta Sanita Resort and

Spa, which I’d say is the worst hotel we’ve

been to; not complaining though. We had a dip

in the hot tub at night when it was cold and

windy; not very smart of me.

Day 9

Kuningan - Bandung

In the morning we saw the house where

Indonesia and the Dutch negotiated peace and

produced a cease fire treaty.


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It was called Perundingan (discussion) Linggarjati, the name

of the place where it happened.

It was initiated by Sutan Syahir and Prof. Ir.

Schermerhorn at Syahir’s house.

The negotiations until the signing of the treaty,

which was in Istana Merdeka, took place from

14 September 1946 to 25 March 1947.

The mediator for the negotiations was the

Englishman Lord Killearn.

The transfer of sovereignty happened at Istana

Gambir on 27 December 1949.

The house was full of old pictures of the people

involved and what the scene was like.

Walking to the car, there were strong gusts of

wind.

We went to another museum in Sumedang

Museum Prabu Geusan Ulun, the last king of

the kingdom of Sumedang. It had six buildings

and in it were various heirlooms, artifacts,

weapons, fossils, gamelan (music inst.) sets, horse-drawn

carts and other old stuff.


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There were old banknotes from other countries,

which Ollie took much interest in.

Ayah found, in a corner, a collection of awards

belonging to Edy Soemadipradja, Oma’s (grandma) uncle.

I tried to care and record as much as I could

while feeling so faint.

After I decided I wrote and saw enough, I

waited in the car.

Pak Hadi wanted to know me better and asked

about my education. The only nice thing I have

to say about him is that he was strong enough to

endure Ayah’s rage without breaking down. Of

course I didn’t say that to him.

Then I had the best lunch on this crazy trip at a

restaurant with Bandung in its name. I had paru,

sop buntut and pepes ati ampela. (lung, oxtail soup, liver)

There were a few landslides on the roads in

Sumedang and heavy-load trucks, that aren’t

allowed to use this mountain road, were

hampering us.


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We saw a statue of Pangeran Kornel shaking

hands with Jenderal (general) H. W. Daendels.

Kornel, who was the grandchild of the last

Sumedang king, is famous for defying

Daendels who imposed forced labor on the

citizens.

We arrived at The Ardjuna Boutique Hotel and

Spa at around three.

Oom (uncle) Acun and his family were staying on the

same floor as our room was on and we were

going to have dinner with them. I stayed in the

room until dinner time, watching TV.

I met them at the lobby and played Eternity Memory of Lightwaves on the

Kawai piano. It felt so good.

We looked for a Japanese restaurant around

Bandung, me going in their car, and eventually

decided on The Sierra.

The menu had many different kinds of food and

I chose the wrong dish, just because it had

spinach in it. I ate Ibu and mba’s leftover udon.


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It was unusually chilly, I realized, or maybe I

haven’t been to Bandung for a while. Tante (aunt)

Atun said it’s because of global warming.

Emir (their son), who only wore shorts and sandals, would

rather freeze than wear a pink sweater.

That was the last night of our 10-day trip.

Day 10

Bandung - Jakarta

We said goodbye to the Acuns and went

shopping at the outlets.

I bought T-shirts, shorts and pants.

We shopped at three outlets - Uptown, Branded

Club and Cascades, where we had a snack.

We passed by the hospital where Ayah was

born: RS (hosptital) Boromeus and his elementary

school.

For lunch, we ate at Raja Sunda.

I felt crappy on the way home and wrote:

everything will be better when we get home.


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When we got to Jakarta, I felt that the traffic

jams were on a different level than the ones in

the towns and cities we passed through. It was

unruly here. I found one reason why Jakarta is

such a mess.

The towns we passed through from Garut to

Wonosobo were clean and proper. This is

because the people living there are mostly or all

natives.

Jakarta, being the capital city, attracts people

from all over the country.

These emigrants have no sense of responsibility

over the land they live in and, I learned from

Ibu, they don’t recognize the authorities here

and do as they please. Some capital.

We arrived home around five o’clock with the

meter on 2578 km and applauded the driver.

My parents exchanged apologies with him for

any wrongs done to each other.

We got everything out of the car.


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Being stuck together in a mini-van for long

hours on the road really tests how much you

can endure other members of your family, a

driver you barely know and boredom.

Everyone, to some extent felt that.

I know I did the most, with those females

deliberately shocking me. This definitely added

to how draining this insane road trip was, but it

was worth everything and what a feat.

I now can say I know Java; well its culture,

history and landscape at least, but not its

wildlife.

I didn’t get to see much wildlife. All the good

reserves were further east and too far. Boo.

Maybe next time.

I apologize for missing any important things on

the places of interests because I was sick.


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